08 # 4 9 7 | 0 4 . 0 5 . 2 0 1 7 葉榮枝先生 Mr. Ip Wing-chi • 新亞書院經濟系（1975）、藝術系（1977）校友 Alumnus of Economics (1975) and Fine Arts (1977), New Asia College • 樂茶軒創辦人、中國茶葉學會理事及香港茶道協會會長 Founder of LockCha, Council Member of China Tea Science Society, and Chairman of Hong Kong Tea Association 如何與茶結緣？ 我畢業後在中大中國文化研究所任助理研究員，主要研究古物。當時 羅桂祥博士想找人研究一批紫砂茶壺，館長委派我負責，我於是在1979年 在中大舉辦了香港首個茶具展覽，自此與茶結緣。有次與羅博士赴宜興參 觀紫砂工廠，接觸了顧景舟、朱可心等紫砂壺大師，看到美輪美奐的茶壺， 眼界大開。可惜當時宜興茶壺不能直接外銷，我倆幾經波折，終於聯繫上 南京國營出口公司，向工廠訂了一批紫砂茶壺，並於1981年在香港的亞洲 藝術節展出，時任南京博物院副院長宋伯胤及顧景舟皆有出席這盛會。其 後，我跟羅博士成立公司管理這批紫砂壺，更在1984年活化了建於1845年 的三軍總司令官邸，把它改建為香港茶具文物館。 你致力舉辦活動推廣中國文化與茶道，背後的推動力在哪？ 這與新亞書院的中國文化氛圍有關。我當年有幸親炙牟宗三教授、唐君 毅教授、 饒宗頤 教授等國學名宿，也曾拜訪陳蕾士老師，在他的辦公室品 嚐潮州功夫茶。在眾多儒雅學者的薰陶下，我自然與中國文化結下不解 緣。唐教授曾慨嘆中華民族失去凝聚自身的力量，這令我萌生對中國文化 的承擔感。茶是文化的載體，我樂意讓更多人藉此細味中國文化。推動茶 文化之路着實不易，我在1991年創立樂茶軒，2003年開辦金鐘的茶館時 遇上沙士，差點破產，幸得多人仗義相助，安渡難關。孟子有云：「得道多 助」，我們只要做事正面，自然會得到多方支持。 茶怎樣承載中國文化？ 茶是中國人不可或缺的生活，自然承載中國文化之種種。以潮州功夫茶為 例，一般主客四人卻只有三個杯子，這就蘊含了禮讓以及儒家長幼有序的 精神。主人家會親自泡茶奉客，開火煮水後，將茶葉放入紫砂壺，三個茶 杯「品」字形排列，待水開即沖燙杯壺，同時沖洗茶葉。斟茶時，主人提 壺巡迴穿梭三杯之間，最後還得把「餘津」依次一點一滴點入三杯之中， 此過程稱為「關公巡城」和「韓信點兵」。大家揖讓一番後，主人再依長 幼次序以茶奉客。 你鑽研出太極茶禮，請介紹箇中理念。 中國文化萬事互通，人的學問也是綜合的學問，與現今分門別類的思考 方式不同。茗茶以外，我喜愛書法和太極，都有助我觸類旁通，對生命感 悟甚深。例如書法講求持筆中正、平腕等等，我初學時，卻發現持筆中正 時，腕便不平；腕一平，筆卻會歪。我後來學習太極，練習抱球動作時， 發現手臂一張開便容易平腕。後來很多茶友發現泡茶的姿勢令他們手腕 痛，我靈機一動，構思出太極茶禮，將太極的動作融入斟茶的動作，使人 泡茶時坐得舒服，手腕不會受傷。 茶道與茶藝有何不同？ 茶道滋養人心，一盞熱茶助人放慢步伐，在靜謐中自省修身，體會無處不 在的「道」；茶藝則是泡茶與飲茶的技藝。 品茶是慢活，都市人生活步伐緊湊，要勸服年輕人踏出第一步，有 何心得？ 要年輕人放慢步伐的確不易，教育是切入點。我現正與新亞學長 陳萬雄 博士籌備成立中國茶文化學院，冀為本地大學及專上學院的通識課程教 授茶文化，讓年輕人體味茗茶樂。 要在中大選一處賞茶的好地方，你會選哪裏？ 身為新亞人，我必然選天人合一亭，在此「與天地共飲」。「天人合一」是 中國文化的核心，天地人三者在自然界是互通的，放下操控，回歸自然與 天地連結，才能安頓自己，覓得立身處世之道。 口 談 實 錄 / V iva V oce Photo by ISO Staff How did you and tea meet? After graduation, I worked as an assistant researcher at CUHK’s Institute of Chinese Studies. The curator assigned me to study some purple clay teapots when Dr. Lo Kwee-seong approached us for a teapot project. In 1979, I organized the first tea ware exhibition in Hong Kong on CUHK campus. Dr. Lo and I visited the purple clay teapot factory in Yixing, met masters such as Mr. Gu Jingzhou and Mr. Zhu Kexin, and saw many beautiful teapots. Those couldn’t be directly imported from Yixing. We thereby searched far and wide for an importer and eventually found a state-owned export enterprise in Nanjing, resulting in the display of some exquisite teapots at Hong Kong’s Asia Arts Festival in 1981. I was particularly happy to have the honourable presence of the then Associate Director of the Nanjing Museum, Mr. Song Boyin, and the teapot master Mr. Gu Jingzhou at the event. Afterwards, Dr. Lo and I founded a company to manage the exhibits. In 1984, we even converted the Flagstaff House built in 1845 into the Museum of Tea Ware. What drives you to the promotion of Chinese culture and the Tao of Tea? The cultural ambience at New Asia College plays a crucial role in it. I was fortunate enough to have been lectured by renowned scholars such as Prof. Mou Zongsan, Prof. Tang Junyi, Prof. Jao Tsung-I and Mr. Chen Leishi. I enjoyed my bonding with Mr. Chen as we sometimes shared some Chaozhou kungfu tea in his office. Since then I have never stopped from embracing Chinese culture and should naturally want to contribute to its preservation and promotion. Drinking tea is a good conduit to help more people appreciate our culture. The road to promote tea culture has never been easy. I founded LockCha in 1991. When I opened the tea house in Admiralty in 2003, I was driven to the edge of bankruptcy because of SARS, only to be bailed out by some helping hands. The experience confirmed my belief in a saying by Mencius: A just cause enjoys abundant support. How is tea a conduit of Chinese culture? Tea drinking is part of life in Chinese culture and has deeper meanings. Take Chaozhou kungfu tea as an example. Traditionally a host would serve three guests in most instances, but only three small cups are prepared. The Confucian values of deference and respect to elders can be seen here. The tea brewing is solely prepared by the host. After boiling water, the host will put some tea leaves in the purple clay teapot and arrange the three cups in a triangle. The teapot, cups and leaves are rinsed when the hot water is ready. Afterwards, the host pours the tea into the cups evenly in a circular manner. The tea will be poured into every cup until the last drop. After a ceremony of invitation and deference within the group, the host will serve the guests according to seniority. You’ve combined Tai Chi with tea. Tell us about it. The Chinese believe in universal interconnectedness. A holistic approach is preferred to compartmentalized thinking. In addition to tea appreciation, I also like Chinese calligraphy and Tai Chi. They help develop my lateral thinking. The Chinese calligraphy brush, for instance, should be vertically held with the wrist in a suspended position. When I was still a beginner, I couldn’t maintain a suspended wrist while keeping the brush vertically. I learnt Tai Chi later on. To my surprise, the ball-holding posturing required by Tai Chi enabled me to keep a suspended wrist. Many friends complained that tea brewing hurt their wrists. I immediately thought of integrating Tai Chi with tea brewing. Now, those who practice this routine can enjoy tea brewing without hurting their wrists. What’s the difference between the Tao of Tea and the Art of Tea? The Tao of Tea is soul-nourishing. A cup of hot tea slows us down, helps us reflect in tranquility and comprehend the Way or Tao. The Art of Tea concerns the craft of brewing and tasting. Tea tasting is slow living. Isn’t it anathema to city dwelling and the young generation? It’s not easy for the young generation to slow down. Education is a path to it. I’m now working with Dr. Chan Man-hung on founding the Chinese Tea Culture Institute. We hope to offer general education courses on tea culture in tertiary institutions in order to initiate the young to tea appreciation. If you want to enjoy a nice cup of tea at CUHK, where will you go? As a member of New Asia College, I’d undoubtedly choose the Pavilion of Harmony to drink to the heaven and the earth. The concept of the ‘Union of Man and Nature’ is core to Chinese culture: The heaven, the earth and humans are interconnected. We should give up the sense of control and connect with nature, so as to make peace with ourselves and discover the way of living.